June 01, 2006

22nd Century Arabia

I did not meet a single person, foreign or expat, in Beirut who has been to Dubai and had much nice to say about it. Most described it as a culture- and history-free shopping mall on the Gulf, an Arab Las Vegas which can't hold up to Beirut's authenticity. Maybe they're right. I don't know. I haven't been there. But check out what the skyline will look like after the Burj Dubai skyscraper, the soon-to-be tallest building in the entire world, is finished. (Hat tip: One Arab World.)

dubai tower.jpg

Big mall on the Gulf or not, that skyline looks like the 22nd Century. Heck, that could be a model city in a Star Trek movie. And Dubai has little oil. The place is built to last.

Michael Yon was there recently and was very impressed, although he did see it through Iraq-colored eyes. He had this to say, which is worth pointing out:
It was embarrassing when the United States erupted a month ago over the port security issue, and in so doing hurled insults at our friends in the UAE. I know nothing about port security and so cannot comment on that issue. I can, however, attest that the UAE is a strong, intelligent and reliable ally, very pro-West and pro-American, and before we reflexively stone our friends, it would be wise to remember that good friends are hard to find. It’s too bad no one in a position to know had the foresight to let the average American in on that. This is a part of the world most people know very little about, and the little they do know makes them anxious about knowing much more.

Our friends in the UAE want the Coalition efforts in Iraq and Afghanistan to succeed, and they are vocal about it. While much of the west, including many of our oldest allies, postures on about how the war on terror is a horrible mistake, the sentiment in the UAE is that it would be a horrible mistake not to face the facts about our common enemy, an enemy that might be just as happy to destroy the UAE as America. The people of the Emirates that I asked about the port security issue merely politely shrugged it off, but our loosely flung words did land here, with a big, dull thud...

There are not hundreds of giant cranes working in Dubai, but thousands. Where is all the money, water, and power coming from? What will happen a decade from now? Is this a bubble? I do not know. But I do know that the leaders here are thinking about and planning for a peaceful and prosperous future, a future not dependent on oil or war or terrorism.
Posted by Michael J. Totten at June 1, 2006 07:52 PM
Comments

Keep in mind, Michael, that many of the people who are currently employed as guest workers in Dubai -- building and staffing the history-free mall, cannot live in Dubai, or even afford to shop there. The interesting thing is that the UAE is mostly 80 to 20 foreigner vs citizen.

Posted by: Jauhara al Kafirah at June 1, 2006 08:24 PM

Jauhara,

I know, it's an odd place.

Posted by: Michael J. Totten at June 1, 2006 08:38 PM

Another great post. Interesting. Especially because you've got a good eye for the human character. When you had written about the Kurds building in Iraq; I had sent these pictures to a cousin of mine, an architect. And, he responded with pictures of Dubai. (But I'm with you on this one. The tall stuff isn't a "sky line" so much as a competition between places like Singapore and Hong Kong. Where they lose the emphasis on what had been grand about those cities. And, build sky high.) After 9/11 my love for the tall stuff vanished. Let alone, inside these buildings, you run from elevator shaft to elevator shaft. There's no direct access to the top. Though, yes, the views can be spectacular.

On the other hand, I.M.Pei, my favorite architect did design the tall one in Hong Kong. And, what he did that's as beautiful as you can get with structure, was to design the modules in such a way the weight shifts. Curves carrying weight. It's not one long pole all the way to the top. There's a flow to this tall approach, making it pretty from the outside.

But I'm with you. Who'd really want to live or work inside Disneyland year round?

By the way,do you ever go and read DEBKA? Today's edition deals with Basra. In Iraq. And, what seems to be the Shi'ite militias take-over of the oil fields, where 20% to 30% of the output is now illegally transfered. Basra's the section under British control. And, we're supposed to be withdrawing troops? Boy, have I got questions. Add to this, IRAQ THE MODEL's post, today, about how rumors are wrapping around Baghdad that the future will be a Sunni military takeover of the country. Well, I poo-poo'ed it. Because rumors are usually strong on wishful thinking.

Still, Iraq's now a long way off from entering the world of sky scraper competitions.

The Internet makes so much accessible; but so much remains incomprehensible. Yup. People are doing this stuff. While the basics seem to be missing.

Posted by: Carol Herman at June 1, 2006 11:57 PM

My sister recently accepted a contract for 2 years to teach at private school in Dubai. She leaves in August. I know I'm planning to go visit her -- I want to see all the artificial islands they're building off the coast. And that indoor ski thingie they've built too. Apparently it's just a few blocks down the street from my sister's school.

I looked it up in the CIA Factbook, and I too was struck by the statistic mentioned above -- the population of the UAE is about 80% "foreigner" and only 20% of actual citizens. Sounds like a very interesting place.

Posted by: JC at June 2, 2006 02:08 AM

They may be progressive for an Arab country. But remember their leaders flew to Afghanistan to go hunting and many times met with Osama. They knew exactly what kind of man he was and his followers. They are very aware of the Muslim Brotherhood, Hamas, Hezbollah and the rest.

There are many things wrong with administration in our country. Diplomaticaly, if the UAE cannot understand why a nation of people would not be highly worried about an Arab country taking over its port management after 2001, then maybe they will not mind if Americans come in and buy up there land?

Wait, is it legal for Americans to own land in UAE? Can American's own their ports? Can history books tell the truth in the private schools? What other rights are available to foreigners? Lets please try to put some perspective on the leaders. They're still an oppressive government by American standards.

Sorry, I have little patience with Kings these days.

Posted by: Michael at June 2, 2006 04:07 AM

"They're still an oppressive government by American standards"

Sorry Michael, you're talking shit.

Shock and Awe? Ultimatums to Countries about what they can and cannot do? Supreme Court deciding who gets to govern?
Breaking international law?
Running concentration camps? Shooting women and children, then trying to cover it up?
Torturing innocent iraqis in the same prison where Saddam tortured his own people?
Kidnapping, dissapearing people, waterboarding, forcefeeding (most likely) innocent people on an illegally held part of a foreign sovereign country.
massive political and monetary support of the illegal, immoral and disgusting systematic humiliation and oppression of the palestinian peoples.

Yeah. Those are some high standards.

Posted by: kevser at June 2, 2006 05:15 AM

MJT,

somebody just took a big fat dump on your thread.

Posted by: Carlos at June 2, 2006 06:22 AM

Michael (author of the crazy post, not Totten)

What are you smoking? Go grab an education before you post anything on any blog.

Posted by: Sam at June 2, 2006 06:37 AM

Hey kevser,

If you hate America so much, maybe you'd like to move to Dubai. I'll help you pack. (BTW, if you think the prisoners at Gitmo are "innocent people", then I'm pretty sure we can't vouch for your standards as an alternative).

Posted by: someguy at June 2, 2006 06:44 AM

I don't about Lebanese, but a lot of Iranians I know love Dubai. For them I think Dubai represents a pretty unique combination of Western material abundance and freedom of choice combined with an underlying observance of non-Western traditional values. Russians seem to love the place too. Unfortunately Dubai does strike me as an artificial bubble supported by oil wealth and one fairly enlightened but authoritarian leader. Me, I'll take Beirut any day.

Posted by: vanya at June 2, 2006 07:17 AM

From what I've read and heard about the places, I'd take Beirut over Dubai as well. But when I read a line like this:

Most described it as a culture- and history-free shopping mall on the Gulf, an Arab Las Vegas which can't hold up to Beirut's authenticity.

It reminds me a bit of the griping that some Europeans do regarding America. The old resenting the new, at least to a degree.

Posted by: Eric at June 2, 2006 07:32 AM

No one expects the ME to change over night, and no one expects the UAE or any other ME country to completely jetison unrepresentative government over night. Given the lack of political and economic institutions outside the network of Mosques, that would be tremendously destabilizing.

The UAE's focus on infrastructure, then, is heartening. Create a viable economic system (meaning one that is not based 100% on the sale of a finite resource), and the rest of the changes become inevtiable.

Posted by: Chris at June 2, 2006 07:33 AM

Why is the first word that comes to my mind, Disneyland?

So saying it's a great place to visit doesn't change the dynamics that a city is created by its neighborhoods. By the old stuff mixed in with the new. That's why I was so mesmerized by your pictures you took in the Kurdish sector of Iraq, rather than the razzle-dazzle of Dubai.

If I remember correctly you were photographic neighborhoods where people live. And, kids play. Where it's nice to see "park lands" put aside among the building complexes; because nobody wants to just live inside an apartment. There are time you want to go outside. And, you also send the kids out to play.

Maybe, your next trip could be to Dubai? Would they let you just photograph the streets where people live?

Even if you've visited Disneyland, and you can remember it well, it's still doesn't host much in the way of real life. (As a matter of fact, those in the know, speak about unspeakable things. Like the way, every morning they spray so that no bugs will attack people walking about. Instead of "real life" ... the scenes are fabricated, and unhealthy. And, it's also an odd world where the staff has to walk underground.) I know. Lots of sentences. But it's frustrrating not being able to get across what I feel are the differences between Disneyworld and reality. Oh, well.

Posted by: Carol Herman at June 2, 2006 10:42 AM

Vanya: I don't about Lebanese, but a lot of Iranians I know love Dubai.

Everyone seems to love Dubai except Lebanese and also Westerners who live in Lebanon. I find this fascinating. My friend Dan and I met SO many people who have been to Dubai and it got downright bizarre after a while when every single one of them said they didn't like it at all.

Perhaps it all just depends on what Dubai is compared to. Compared to Saudi Arabia, Iran, and Egypt it must be paradise. Compared to Beirut maybe it is just a big mall.

When I was in Beirut myself I had a feeling I would hate it if I went there. But now that I'm back in the US I have a feeling I'll like it if I go there. Who knows? I'm thinking about going now and seeing for myself.

Posted by: Michael J. Totten at June 2, 2006 11:19 AM

Vanya: Me, I'll take Beirut any day.

You should go. It's really something. I don't know anyone who went there and didn't like it. My mother loved it and couldn't believe the dramatic disconnect between expectations and reality. She never would have gone there if I didn't basically force her. One reason I did it is so she would stop worrying about me while I was there. It worked.

Posted by: Michael J. Totten at June 2, 2006 11:27 AM

Michael,

A few thousand Shi'ite Lebanese, upset at a TV show spoof of Nasrallah; what does it mean? I know about "freedom to congregate." But a TV show spoof spooks enough people that they demonstrate cartoonish stuff?

Or would my jumping to the conclusion that it was staged, be far off the mark?

It had to be staged for the locals, right? And, tying up traffic is meant to do what to most of the folks just driving about?

If you had to choose between categories, where "A" is "much ado about nothing," and "B" is sympathetic to religous folk," what would you pick? (I've been to Greenwich Village street fairs in Manhattan. There's no terror in this stuff at all.)

Will the "disturbance" make it more difficult to laugh at Nasrallah, ahead? Where's the advantage to Nasrallh, here?

Posted by: Carol Herman at June 2, 2006 12:24 PM

Michael,

If you go to Dubai, then you'll stop in Lebanon, too? Is the summer much too hot to go? And, if you go back what sorts of stuff would you re-visit?

Posted by: Carol Herman at June 2, 2006 12:26 PM

Why would anyone go to Las Vegas when they can just as easily go to a charming city like San Francisco?
Yet, Vegas is still there. So is Dubai.

Posted by: elambend at June 2, 2006 12:39 PM

Michale T -

I thought Dubai has the most natural gas in the world? Or is that Quatar?

The UAE is a modern city with businessmen. I have a friend, who is Sephardic, and has business dealings across the Middle East. He's buying and getting residency in Dubai.

But don't forget the head Imam in the UAE was the head of a blatantly anti-semitic "think tank" that almost sponsored a department at Harvard.

And building skyscrapers doesn't mean you're "modern"..... Lebanon is poorer than Kuwait and Dubai but does anyone here believe that Kuwait, with legalized slavery etc... "more modern" than Lebanon?

Education - state of mind - Western laws and freedoms

are important not skyscrapers and business deals.

The Saudi Kleptocrats are great businessmen.

Mike

Posted by: Mike Nargizian at June 2, 2006 01:00 PM

I read GulfNews online daily. It is published in Abu Dubai. If that is what smart, strong, pro-American Arabs sound like then the rest of them must REALLY be living in caves.

Posted by: NahnCee at June 2, 2006 04:08 PM

Odd piece of news. There are 17-million Saudis who invest in their stock market. And, 9-million of them just took a bath. How do I know this? Some strange story about bumper stickers showed up. Seems like the Saudis have run into some problems on their stock market after all. So are they really such good businessmen?

Posted by: Carol Herman at June 2, 2006 05:19 PM

MJT

If you want to explore Iran, Dubai is your base. There are dozens of flights per week to Tehran, Isfahan, etc...

From what I've read in the comments section, everyone pretty much believes what they read. Dubai has got to have the best PR machine money can buy. And they have done absolute wonders with the publicity.

It doesn't take that much to see the cracks though. And they are huge.

Perhaps this is something you could do. Shed light on the Dubai that people don't know. The news that isn't finances by huge A&P budgets (and massive political and financial clout). In other words, the real Dubai.

Like I mentioned earlier (somewhere), the Dubai leadership has it's heart in the right place. But it's not sustainable so long as there is no transparency.

Posted by: The Perpetual Refugee at June 3, 2006 05:41 AM

Dubai is likely as sustainable as Hong Kong, that is, very sustainable as long as folks with guns don't come in and ruin it.

Investing wealth in lovely buildings, artificial islands, and a Disney-World quality of clean life seems a LOT better than putting it into Swiss bank accounts (like Arafat did).

Plus it's quite likely that those owners/investors whose buildings got up closer to schedule, and closer to budget, will be more likely to build more. Rewarding competence is crucial in the long term.

In Dubai, Beirut, and Las Vegas. Michael, you should maybe ask Marc Cooper to go with you -- he's an expert on LV.

Thanks for fine foto, interesting ideas.

I wish Dubai would become a leader in solar powered air-conditioning; or Israel.

Posted by: Tom Grey - Libertay Dad at June 3, 2006 10:21 AM

NahnCee, each United Arab Emirate is semi-independent, and from what I read, Dubai and Abu Dhabi are like night and day, Abu Dhabi being the Saudiesque oil-royalty empire.

Posted by: James M. at June 3, 2006 04:33 PM

Lebanese hate Dubai because it shows them what they could be - and once were. (And yes, if Lebanon were to do it, it would be a real country too. But commerce doesn't care much about that.)

Posted by: N'miya at June 4, 2006 12:55 AM

1) Beirut was never like Dubai. Ever. And that's not necessarily a bad thing. I'd like to elaborate, seeing as I know both places inside out. But I'm busy.

2) Dubai's economoy is not sustainable in it's current state. That is not to say it will collapse. It will 'correct' itself, more like it. With alot of pain to the people to who live there.

3) Lebanese don't hate Dubai. That is a gross exaggeration. They would just prefer to live back home. Actually, the UAE is a big supporter of a strong, free Lebanon. The UAE government is as liberal as you can get in the Arabian (Persian) Gulf. And they know how to run their country. They just don't know how to move towards a more representative political model.

5) Yes, Dubai is putting it's money where it's mouth is. Investing their petro dollars (and yes they do have petrol. Not as much as Abu Dhabi. But they have enough. And at $70/barrel, that says alot) in their own backyard. I respect them for that.

6) Are they a model for Arabia. Yes, economically. The Saudis could learn a thing or two. But money isn't everything. They want Dubai to be compared to Cordoba under Arab (Moorish) rule. It's a noble vision. But Cordoba was reconquered and the Inquisition came.

Posted by: A fan at June 4, 2006 03:44 AM

Carol Herman, what's wrong with spraying for bugs? I don't know about Disneyland (which is in California), but in Disney World, which is in Central Florida, regular pesticide sprays aren't merely done for some sinister "hiding real life" reason, but for health reasons. Life would be impossible in Central Florida if insects were not kept down, never mind the ability to go to a theme park for the day: mosquitos carry diseases. Since I live here, I guess I'm selfish -- I don't want to worry about yellow fever and malaria every year like the good old days.

Posted by: Andrea Harris at June 4, 2006 06:07 AM

Beirut was never like Dubai. Ever. And that's not necessarily a bad thing. I'd like to elaborate, seeing as I know both places inside out. But I'm busy.

They are alike in one way: Safe havens for commerce in a region that is generally hostile to it. Why else would only Lebanese be hostile to it? They know it could be their future too, and they would do it better.

Posted by: N'miya at June 4, 2006 06:25 AM

N'miya,

If you're hostile to it, so be it.
A majority of Lebanese are not. Stop generalizing.

Posted by: A fan at June 4, 2006 07:15 AM

Andrea Harris. I agree with you. Nobody would want to go to a theme park and get eaten alive by bugs.

But pesticide spraying can have disasterous effects if it's done for COSMETICS. I think that was the point I was trying to make.

Not that Disney doesn't know how to do crowd control, effectively. They're geniuses at it. Most of us, if we've been to their parks, have only gone "a few times" at most, though. We don't choose to live under artificials circumstances all of the time.

And, there's a difference if you KNOW things. Or if you're just walking though the park and could care less.

What Disney does is spray PRIOR to anyone's arrival, every single day. Maybe, it's like a Biblical pestilence? Or a bug's life? Or unnatural? Not really sure.

Are we supposed to live in a bug free world?

Do we kill all the bees?

Yes, I know park customers care about the things that don't really work in nature. That was my point. Real cities aren't artificial, either. The best ones, like New York City, where I grew up, are magnificent networks. You go a few blocks and you leave Chinatown and enter Italy. In every direction, what you see changes. And, what you see gets imprints from all of the immigrants who came to America's shores through New York's ports. Yup. "Bugs" of all sorts, and all. (I live in Southern California, now. And, it's not a city with the same character.) Differences aren't a sin. There are just differences in the world. (And, Disney is OVERPRICED for what it offers. But where would management be without cash registers?) Oh. And, they're willing to buy bug spray. One of the few things they pay for that's behind the scenes.

Yes, Michael, I hope you go to Dubai! What wonders you could bring back, here. Pictures, flavors, and all. Bad? Nah. Delightful!

Posted by: Carol Herman at June 4, 2006 08:45 AM

Ms Herman, I repeat that Disney does not spray for mere "cosmetic" reasons, but for health reasons, as well as for perfectly normal reasons of profit: it would certainly not be conducive to their business for visitors to be constantly scratching and slapping at themselves, not to mention collapsing with anaphylactic shock after being stung by one of your beloved bees, or ending up hospitalized with one of the many mosquito-borne viruses that used to be endemic to this part of the world. I am sure that if you had been attacked by swarms of mosquitos or bees or had a cockroach run across your fries during your visit to Disney World you would have complained just as shrilly as you are about the pesticides.

We here in Florida have been weighing the dangers of pesticide spraying against living with "real" nature in the form of swarms of biting, stinging, disease-carrying insects for more years than you have been alive. Personally I am thankful that as a side effect of the need to keep the area relatively pest-free for its millions of visitors I as a resident in a nearby town also benefit.

As for your disappointed assessment of Disney's charms not being worth the money, that's not really the subject is it? In any case, I have not been to Disney in almost fifteen years, so I can't commiserate with you one way or the other. Perhaps it's time to quit casting blame and instead revive the old phrase caveat emptor.

Posted by: Andrea Harris at June 4, 2006 12:44 PM

Michael,

Sorry, couldn't read through all the comments, so I don't know if someone already mentioned this.

Dubai doesn't look like that. in fact, it doesn't even come close. They want it to look like that, but there are many naysayers claiming that it will never look that way.

Allegedly, demand is tappering off, and it's becoming harder and harder to build the Burj Dubai (the massive structure in the center of the picture you post).

Posted by: lebanon.profile at June 5, 2006 12:00 AM

I thought there was a story somewhere about the folly of attempting to build monuments to the heavans.

Like adult children with sudden great wealth. Wealth can come quickly but widom ever so slowly.

Dubai, where people buy the BIG model Hummer and some prefer to drive about in their ten wheel diesel tractor. Never ever attach a trailer and do something practical. No no... too uncouth.

Remember, what goes up eventually comes down. I prefer not to think of when fresh water begins to surpass oil in value. TG

Posted by: TonyGuitar at June 6, 2006 12:23 PM

It looks like hell on earth.

Posted by: shira at June 7, 2006 04:58 PM

Kevser - no the war is not illegal. The UN recognizes fully US Coalition forces in Iraq today. Cease fire agreements were breached years ago by Saddam after the first gulf war. Please get your fact straight. UK and USA could've attacked at any time. Bush went the extra mile for people like you. It was a waste of time, but he still tried.

Your other talking points are run-of-the-mill jibberish and have all previously been shot down. And they have nothing to do with the discussion.

My points were about UAE, their leaders history and the governments double standard.

Sam, putdowns are lame excuses for not having any real information. If you have info to contradict me, do so.

UAE was only one of three governments to officially recognize the Taliban as legitimate government. UAE Sheiks were tied up heavily with terrorist as much as any other Arabian government leaders. That's a known fact. Saudi Arabia and Pakistan were the other countries that recognized the Taliban.

They do not allow Americans to own land, buy port management services companies of their ports, etc., etc. And while they are more liberal in ways than most Arab nations, they're still corrupt. And the double standard exist.

If my points about UAE are wrong, please point to specific items. Everything I stated about the meetings with Osama, Taliban are correct. UAE ties with Osama are cited in the 9/11 report as well. Your silly comments aside, its quite obvious neither of you had anything to add but pure ranting and rage.

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