October 04, 2005


Not every nice place in Beirut looks like the Middle Eastern amusement park downtown. Much more my style is a scruffy old gentrifying bohemian quarter known as Gemmayze (pronounced Juh-MAY-zee). It’s the “Greenwich Village” of Beirut. Here are some night shots.

Gemmayze at Night 5.jpg

Gemmayze at Night 6.jpg

Gemmayze at Night 7.jpg

Gemmayze Bar at Night.jpg

Posted by Michael J. Totten at October 4, 2005 01:04 PM

Now I wish I had gone out tonight.
I can't stand Monot St., the street that the guide books mention as the nightclubbing spot. I've never had a fantastic time there.
Contrarily, I always enjoy Gemayze. Even after it fully gentrifies, it will still be nice. And the proximity to the downtown will guarantee success.

Posted by: lebanon.profile at October 4, 2005 01:31 PM

Haha the world is so small. My grandma-grandpa used to live in one of the building you photographed (the one with the coffee shop known as ahwat el 'zez). If I am not mistaken (the picture is dark), it's the building that you can see in the 3rd photo.

Michael, I am sure that everybody keeps telling you that Lebanon is a small place, and now you can see why.

Posted by: Vox P. at October 4, 2005 02:41 PM

Please keep the photographic posts coming.

Posted by: Itiail at October 4, 2005 06:04 PM

I'm surprised the bar is still displaying liqour bottles so close to Ramadan. I live in Indonesia and the bars around here take down the liqour displays and replace it with water and Coke bottles. Of course the liqour is still for sale.

Posted by: Jason at October 4, 2005 07:03 PM

Actuall Gemayze is a Christian neighbourhood so you won't feel any change during Ramadan. Most restaurants remain open in West Beirut, even though they are less crowded. Anyway, there's no fasting after sunset.

Posted by: Vox P. at October 4, 2005 10:09 PM

Hello Michael,

Please do not post my correspondence, this is a personal mail I had to post it on your website as I don't have your personal mail...sorry

Hope you had a nice time here in Barbu Cafe/Pub at Gemmaizeh. Your new comments posted on October 16th troubled me. Was it I who insinuated that you were a spy!!! or were you referring to someone else? If it's me then please do excuse my behaviour. I had no right to do so.

On the other hand, hope to see you soon and Charles too...I didn't read what is written, I am not that much interested by politics so you have to excuse me for that...Having not read therefore I can't comment on your writing.

Finally, the wi-fi is working so you can come and work here if you have a laptop, and the breakfast will be ready provided you call me before hand so that we prepare it for you.

You have my tel. number and my e-mail


Posted by: Makram Zeenny at October 17, 2005 02:25 AM
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