June 06, 2005
From Damascus to Beirut
During my month’s stay in Beirut I read Thomas Friedman’s brilliant, terrifying, blackly hilarious, and heart-wrenching From Beirut to Jerusalem for the second time. It wasn’t the same book anymore. I stayed in his part of the city – Hamra – and much of what he described happened right outside my own door. Even so, it was hard to believe he was describing the same place. So much has changed. The Beirut of Friedman’s time reads like a twisted inverse of the present, a dark twin of the modern Beirut, as though the scenes he described took place in an alternate history novel by Philip K. Dick.
Beirut was never just a city. It was an idea – an idea that meant something not only to the Lebanese but to the entire Arab world. While today just the word “Beirut” evokes images of hell on earth, for years Beirut represented – maybe dishonestly – something quite different, something almost gentle; the idea of coexistence and the spirit of tolerance, the idea that diverse religious communities – Shiites, Sunnis, Christians, and Druze – could live together, and even thrive, in one city and one country without having to abandon altogether their individual identities.It breaks my heart to read that. I have seen what they missed and what they held out so bravely and valiantly for.[…]
Many Lebanese were either too young to remember or too poor to have ever tasted the cosmopolitan life of the Beirut city center, so they never mourned its passing. But for those members of the Christian and Muslim bourgeoisie who really exploited the beautiful side of Beirut, life will never be quite the same again without it. True, they had never paid much attention to the Shiite, Palestinian, and even Christian underclasses upon whose backs Beirut’s joie de vivre rested, and they believed in the fantasy of Lebanese democracy much more than they ever should have, but they were my friends and I happened to be a witness when their world was murdered.
Long after the civil war began, many of these true Beirutis kept the addresses of their offices in the ravaged city center on their stationary as symbols of solidarity with the past and hope for the future. As the years went by, some of them emigrated, unable to tolerate a Beirut in which Christians and Muslims were being forced to live in separate, isolated ghettos. But many of them stayed, and today they form a whole new class of Beirut refugees. They are existential refugees, homeless souls, internal exiles. They are still sitting in their old apartments with bucolic paintings of the Lebanese countryside decorating the walls, in their favorite chairs with their favorite slippers – but they are no longer at home and never will be again.
I met a Lebanese refugee when I was there. He is a Maronite Christian named Charles. He left home for Australia, where he lived for many years. He’s back now, and he told me that never in his life has he felt so much at home. He’s too young to remember the glittering cosmopolitan Beirut as it once was. But the old Beirut is returning, and this time the center might hold. The scars of the civil war – the stupid pointless bloody sectarian conflict that all factions lost - are deeply etched in the memories and the hearts of everyone over the age of 20.
But the shadow authorities from the totalitarian city on the other side of the border have not gone away. They, along with Hezbollah, are the still-existing remnants of the dark Beirut that ripped the city and the country to pieces in the 1980s. It was so easy, at times, to think that they had gone – although of course I knew that they hadn’t. But they killed Samir Kassir, anti-Syrian journalist at An Nahar newspaper, and there’s no denying it any longer for even a minute. The liberal dream lived on in Beirut during the war. And now during the peace, fascism - however much the Cedar Revolution may have diluted it - lives on in Lebanon.
I only met Samir briefly three times, not really enough to call him a friend. But he was a good man, I liked him, and we had some things in common. It was those very things that we had in common that got him killed. It brings the war home to me in disturbing ways that are hard to describe. “Beirut,” to me, was always somebody else’s problem – even while I was there. That will never be true again.
Likewise, times 1000, “Damascus” is a problem for people who live outside Syria. A modern, tolerant Lebanon is screaming to get out from under its rule. It is still governed – violently – by people who lurk in the shadows like serial killers.
It is intolerable. The Baathists in Damascus have no right to export their vicious political system to any place that does not want to accept it – which is to say, no place at all. Yet they do. All the more insulting that the country they’ve chosen as their unwilling satrapy is the one Arab country where liberalism comes, in uneven fits and starts, somewhat naturally.
Thomas Friedman wasn’t quite right when he said the cosmopolitan internal exiles of Beirut would never feel at home again. They do again, now, to an extent. But they will never feel fully at home in their country until their country fully belongs to them.
My friend LP at the Lebanese Political Journal showed me a place in Ras Beirut, just down the street from my hotel, where (if I remember correctly) an opposition member of parliament was car-bombed shortly before I arrived. The bomb didn’t kill him, thankfully, and the site was just an ordinary-looking driveway in front of an ordinary-looking apartment building. Assassination attempts, as well as successes, are frightfully normal in that city even today.
Imagine if Syria unsuccessfully car-bombed Rudy Giuliani on his way to work in the morning. Then imagine Syria succeeded in using a 650 pound car bomb to murder Bill Clinton in Harlem, killing dozens more and blowing facades off buildings. Then imagine Syria assassinated Christopher Hitchens, also with a car bomb, in front of his Washington home.
What do you think the U.S. response would be?
It may not be wise under the circumstances, but the people of Lebanon are well within their rights to declare regime-change in Syria an official policy of the Lebanese government.
UPDATE: I should clarify. I don't want to see Lebanon invade Syria. It is neither possible nor desirable. But there are ways to influence events in somebody else's country - ways that do not include invasions or car bombs.
Posted by Michael J. Totten at June 6, 2005 03:32 PMIt may not be wise under the circumstances, but the people of Lebanon are well within their rights to declare regime-change in Syria an official policy of the Lebanese government.
I love it when you talk neocon Michael.
In other words, the Lebanese are within their rights to declare war and invade Syria. Agreed-- but they can't. So what should U.S. policy be towards Syria, is the question. Anything at all?
Posted by: spaniard at June 6, 2005 04:03 PMSpaniard,
I don't want to see Lebanon invade Syria. It is neither possible nor desirable. But there are other ways to influence events in somebody else's country - ways that do not include invasions or car bombs.
Posted by: Michael J. Totten at June 6, 2005 04:31 PMI'd like to see more analysis, and I've never seen any, of Turkey's influence over Syria. I find it hard to believe that Turkey could not somehow play a more significant and constructive role in prodding for change - Damascus was a provincial daughter to Istanbul for 500 years. I realize there is a lot of Arab resentment towards the Turks but there are also a lot of cultural and historical ties between Syria and Turkey. Syrian culture is closer to Turkish culture than it is to Egyptian culture or Saudi culture. Anyone have any insights?
Posted by: Vanya at June 6, 2005 05:18 PMVanya,
I believe Syria and Turkey have been on the outs for quite some time, they don't have many ties as far as I know. Indeed, Turkey would probably be happy to see regime change in Syria.
Posted by: chuck at June 6, 2005 05:27 PMI hope the Lebanese do manage to rebuild(or perhaps as the writings you have quoted imply--BUILD),a true 'tolerant' democracy in that country.
I don't see any truly national leaders and certainly no cohesive parties which can serve as vehicles for that development.And frankly how forces such as Hizbollah and Amal can serve as agents for 'good'somehow escapes me.
Syria is a moral black hole in the region and can certainly be counted on to keep stirring the pot,but the lack of 'true'national governments in the region is by far the greater problem.It is because of 'governmental weakness' that outlaw structures such as Hizbollah find a fertile ground to establish themselves.They provide 'services' not set up by the supposed 'real' State,and thus operate as virtual independent entities.
I hope Lebanon finds a way to resolve this massive problem as no truly 'democratic-free'state can tolerate parallel authorities within it.
“Beirut,” to me, was always somebody else’s problem...
I must confess that I still feel this way about Lebanon and also about Iraq. Intellectually, I know where I stand and where my sympathies lie, but I think it takes real experience to lodge these things deep in the gut. I don't wish such experiences on anyone, but they do grow people up and deepen their moral convictions. It is a mixed blessing Michael, I hope you can do something with it.
Posted by: chuck at June 6, 2005 06:33 PMSyria is fucking up big time, in Iraq and Lebanon. I don't think the team at the white house will appreciate the Syrian/Iranian gov't killing people in Lebanon so that they can run the country as a coloney.
Posted by: Mike #3or4 at June 6, 2005 08:07 PMBut Michael, when you say "It is intolerable." -- are you saying that a few car bombs is worse than genocide? That these Syria - Lebanon murders are worse than 800 000 Tutsis being murdered by Hutus?
The world, and Amnesty, DID tolerate that genocide. Just as a year of Sudan genocide HAS been tolerated, and continues to be tolerated. (And all Clinton voters in 96 voted for more toleration. Didn't most of your friends support Clinton's toleration?)
"The Baathists in Damascus have no right to export their vicious political system to any place that does not want to accept it – which is to say, no place at all."
Rights, schmights -- whose gonna stop 'em? Who is willing to use violent force, including the death of innocents, to stop this? If a world police guy doesn't exist, what does it mean to say a country has "no right" to do something? Besides, "trying" to stop them might mean putting suspected terrorists into prison -- how can one argue that should be done KNOWING that even the best prison systems include some "intolerable" torture/abuse?
"They have no right." Your opinion, which I fully agree with. But nothing more. (I like it when you're a neo-con, too).
The World needs a (NATO based?) Human Rights Enforcement Group -- that's what Blair should be trying to set up with Bush.
[Tear jerking "breaks my heart" was very well said].
Posted by: Tom Grey - Liberty Dad at June 7, 2005 03:41 AM"The world, and Amnesty, DID tolerate that genocide. Just as a year of Sudan genocide HAS been tolerated, and continues to be tolerated. (And all Clinton voters in 96 voted for more toleration. Didn't most of your friends support Clinton's toleration?)"
I'm a Republican, but let's be fair here. Leading Republicans, including George W. Bush, supported the Clinton policy in Rwanda, and were generally in favor of more isolationist foreign policy until 9/11. A '96 vote for Clinton was therefore not really a vote for tolerating genocide--neither party was interested in lifting a finger to help people who had nothing (oil, resources, strategic influence) to offer the USA. Our newfound conscience came only with an understanding that we are vulnerable and a more free, more peaceful world is therefore an American interest. I myself feel that we have a moral duty to act, if possibe, when innocent people are being slaughtered. But let us not be deluded into thinking this is a popular position with either side of the political spectrum.
Posted by: Nathan at June 7, 2005 05:35 AM...but the people of Lebanon are well within their rights to declare regime-change in Syria an official policy of the Lebanese government.
I don't think the people of Lebanon are yet that united, nor do they have the sort of power that would lend itself to promoting regime change, even as talk. With what, 1-2 million Syrian workers in Lebanon, I would think the best bet would be for Lebanon to succeed and set an example. A visible alternative would do more to promote change in Syria than anything else.
Syria is as weak now as it is likely to be, with the transition from Assad the elder to his son. There will at some point be a similar transition from the old buddies of Hafez to a younger generation and I don't think the process will be smooth, it could even go backwards.
Another thing that fascinates me in the region is how arbitrary the state boundaries are. Tribal affiliations cross over the boundaries from Iraq, both in the Kurdish north and in the arab south of Syria. The Iraqi tribes also extend into Jordan and SA. If these tribes become incorporated into the new Iraqi nation and like what they find, this could have interesting repercussions.
Last and not least, there is the internet and satellite television. A prosperous Lebanon will be a deadly source of infection for these modern instruments of revolution. So perhaps our best option is to tell the Lebanese to "live long and prosper."
Posted by: chuck at June 7, 2005 06:41 AMAfter my dot-com job blew up in 2000, somebody set up a listserve for ex-employees so we could keep up with what wacky things we all did. One woman acquired a middle-eastern boyfriend and before we knew it, we got the following slice of reportage from the ground-- specifically, Syria, where she and he apparently went to par-tay! I just ran across it and thought it would be amusing to share as an example of the tunnelvisioned leftist mindset according to which there are no bad people anywhere in the world-- except Crawford, Texas. (This was pre-9/11, I should point out.)
I'm writing from Damascus, SYRIA - and I love it here! I went to Beruit, Lebanon last weekend, and I'm here to say - partying in a war torn city can be FUN! Truthfully, it's WAY more peaceful here than in the US, no danger of terrorist attacks at all.
Syria rocks - they LOVE Americans here, they just hate our government, as I do. Don't believe the US media - they'd want you to believe it's evil here in the Middle East (when, in fact, it's quite peaceful), when the only thing EVIL is that hateful, awful man who's squatting in the White House these days.
Tell it to Rafik Hariri and Samir Kassir.
Posted by: Mike G at June 7, 2005 06:44 AM"Tell it to Rafik Hariri and Samir Kassir"--Mike G
But what do those 'names' have to do with the 'party' in Damascus ? I think you are forgetting that in effete world, it's ALL about ME .
Whereas MJT goes to Beirut and tries to actually 'see' the city as the Lebanese have to live it, the clueless and useless stagger off for a WILD weekend,and find that " partying in a war torn city can be FUN!"
What purpose do these types actually serve ? Inquiring minds really do want to know.
Posted by: dougf at June 7, 2005 07:03 AMWhat purpose do these types actually serve ? Inquiring minds really do want to know.
American girls did have the reputation of being easy and good for a party. Perhaps they still do. If anyone is offended by the word "easy", I am just being culturally sensitive and trying to avoid seeing the world through racist western eyes.
Posted by: chuck at June 7, 2005 07:12 AMChuck,
It's all relative. To a Middle-Easterner American girls probably seem easy. In Russia American girls are generally regarded as uptight, frigid, humorless uberfeminists. And everyone in Europe knows that no one is "easier" than a German/Scandinavian girl on vacation.
To get back on topic - isn't the key to Syria making sure we get Iraq on track? Lebanon is very nice and all, but it is a small place. A Ba'athist regime in a Syria squeezed between a prosperous Turkey and a prosperous Iraq would have no chance of holding power for long. The problem is at the moment Iraq does not seem to be on track at all.
Posted by: Vanya at June 7, 2005 07:29 AMIn Russia American girls are generally regarded as uptight, frigid, humorless uberfeminists.
Or perhaps Anglos in general. I recall reading somewhere that some of the Russian elite got to see Doctor Zhivago when it came out and burst into laughter during the railroad station scene because it was so restrained and "proper."
Anyway, I see Iraq as more successful than you do at this point, so have a great deal of hope there. Enormous strides have been made. Long term, the problems are going to be economic, not insurgents. The Iraqis have to figure out some way of structuring the economy and producing something besides oil and agricultural products. In fact, the entry of any arab country into the productive side of the world economy will be a revolutionary development.
Posted by: chuck at June 7, 2005 07:47 AMIt's funny but when you discussed the impossibility of Lebanon invading Syria, my first reaction was: "Of course they can't beat the Syrian Army, Lebanon has conscription."
If the Lebanese had a professional military composed of volunteers, reasonably well funded, and subject to honest review of their doctrine, they could roll Syria up like a rug. The day of conscipting your way to power ended with the demise of the Soviet Union.
Last year a squad of Highlanders dispersed a platoon of terrorists in Iraq with a bayonet charge. Outnumbered professional soldiers wielding spears defeated irregulars armed with machine guns and rocket launchers.
Lebanon could destroy Syria if it had a professional military. The reason our troops are having such a hard go of it in Iraq is that they are trying to not destroy the country. I don't know if Lebanon could adopt US/UK professional military doctrine and discipline, but they could do a lot worse.
Posted by: Patrick S Lasswell at June 7, 2005 08:44 AMBut Chuck,
Aren't Iraq's economic problems to a large extent caused by the insurgency? If Iraq is perceived as a dangerous chaotic place there will be no outside investment and very little foreign trade. It is also hard to get indigenous business going in a chaotic environment, especially when roads are still unsafe and risky. There is a vicious circle here - the worse the economy gets, the more people are tempted to resort to violence, weakening the economy further, leading even more people to violence, and on and on. You're right that there's a lot of very good news on the political front - democratic institutions are being built on national, regional and local levels. Unfortunately economics often trumps politics, and in the last year, from an economic point of view, it is hard to see that any progress has been made at all. Oil production, employment and energy production are still well below pre-war levels 2 years after Saddam was deposed. That is a major disappointment. This does not mean we give up on Iraq, it means the US should be redoubling efforts to get it right.
Posted by: Vanya at June 7, 2005 09:32 AMVanya,
Aren't Iraq's economic problems to a large extent caused by the insurgency?
Nah. The Iraqi stock exchange is actually growing quite nicely and there is lots of construction, both of private homes and infrastructure: repairing the railroads, the electrical grid, putting in new sewage lines and water plants, etc. The country was a ruin long before the invasion and is now recovering.
In any case, the geographical extent of the insurgency is limited, and the only place it really intersects economic Iraq is Baghdad, and to a lesser extent, in Mosul. I don't think it is going to run too much longer, either, at least the Syrian backed part. The tribes in Anbar are turning against it and the remaining hotspot is likely to be Ninevah, where Iran is more involved. I suspect the constitutional referendum and election scheduled for the end of the year is the milestone to keep an eye on.
Posted by: chuck at June 7, 2005 09:50 AMTom Grey: But Michael, when you say "It is intolerable." -- are you saying that a few car bombs is worse than genocide? That these Syria - Lebanon murders are worse than 800 000 Tutsis being murdered by Hutus?
I have no idea why you would ask me that. Of course it's not worse.
Posted by: Michael J. Totten at June 7, 2005 10:49 AMSome of the expats may be back, but you can't go home again, can you? Beirut, and Lebanon, is terribly changed as a result of the events that began in the early 1970s. It is better than it was a few years ago, but it still has a long way to go before it gets back to its golden years, if indeed that ever happens.
One of the things that occurs in places torn by such strife is that, not only do many people emigrate, but by their very leavetaking (a totally understandable act, by the way) they alter the makeup of the place they leave behind. Ordinarily, certain ethnic groups leave, and often also the most Westernized and educated leave. For example, those who left Lebanon included a higher proportion of Christians, and therefore those Christians who were left lost power and numbers and influence, and the country became much less evenly balanced demographically than it had been before. See this.
Posted by: neo-neocon at June 7, 2005 11:07 AMVanya,
The biggest problem with Iraq economically is the condition it was in pre-OIF.
Of course,
Much of the current economic revival is financed by US money, to the tune of billions of dollars, much of it devoted to supporting the increased salaries of government employees that is driving the widespread acquisition of car, televisions, refridgerators, and such. Weaning Iraq off this particular teat is going to be tricky, and the likely belt tightening could cause discontent. Oil revenues are not all that much. This is why I really want to see them get the agricultural sector up and going, as well as some manufacturing.
Posted by: chuck at June 7, 2005 11:22 AMchuck,
I really think that a lot more of the economic recovery is due to the freedoms not available under Ba'athist rule. There is still a lot of corruption, to be sure, but there no longer is a fixed impediment to all transactions. Not having to buy pre-approval for business deals with the local Tikriti thug has got to be making business a lot more profitable. Once the AIF Sheiks are shaken out of the system, things stand to be more profitable still.
I don't think it will be all that hard to wean Iraq off the US subsidies, the rising tide will be floating too many boats.
Posted by: Patrick S Lasswell at June 7, 2005 12:23 PMHell-ov-a post Michael. See, I wasn't being overly effusive in my praise.
Posted by: GMRoper at June 7, 2005 07:56 PM"I have no idea why you would ask me that. Of course it's not worse."
How do you measure what's "worse"?
What generated more demonstrations and protests:
action to boot Saddam with Op Iraq Freedom or inaction to stop genocide?
Nathan, I'm willing to be fair -- and accept my own guilt, along with Dems and Reps. I was a Libertarian and their usual position is non-interference; let the foreigners murder each other, it's not the US responsibility (where we have no authority).
I've changed. I now advocate a Human Rights Enforcement Group, of fighters willing to fight, kill, die -- and even kill innocents, to stop genocide or gross human rights violations.
I lived through and tolerated the Killing Fields; Rwanda; now Sudan -- genocides all. Though Leftists only want to call Darfur a genocide when they claim Bush isn't doing enough; without usually mentioning that Sudan has "passed" the Global Test and is, by official UN study, not a genocide. (or did they fail the genocide test?)
Michael, when you or Amnesty or any Leftist or Rightist or Isolationist calls something "intolerable", either that means a willingness to take action to stop such behavior, or it's BS.
Whenever I read about Abu or torture or Gitmo, I think -- why is this person complaining of itsy bitsy inevitable human imperfections, when huge genocide is going on in Darfur? And went on under Saddam.
Michael, you say it's not worse. I believe your own writings show far more emotion and passion on issues with US abuse/torture/killings/murder (in the dozens), than with Darfur genocide in the tens of thousands, and hundreds of thousands of deaths, rapes, forced migrations. Saying "it's not worse" when your own chosen word count is some 10 to 1 (guess -- have a better one?) against the less bad issue is ... intolerable?
Posted by: Tom Grey - Liberty Dad at June 8, 2005 10:13 AMMichael Totten, you are an American who understands nothing of Lebanon. Go back to Hicksville, Kansas asap.
Posted by: gru at June 9, 2005 05:20 PMgru you are a fool who knows nothing of the world. go back to hicksville, nowhere.
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