November 25, 2003
In Guatemala City
Guatemala City is a rough place.
The air is choked with diesel fumes. Buildings downtown are smudged with streaks of black. Narrow sidewalks are made narrower by street vendors, and on Avenida 6 pedestrian traffic spills into the streets amid old cars, brightly painted school buses, motorcycles, and carts. Horns blare for no apparent reason other than that drivers seem to like the sound. There is no concept of lanes. Still, if you need to cross the street, someone will stop and wave you across – courtesy amid chaos.
Many of the buildings downtown ought to be charming. At least a fourth date back to the 19th Century. They’re adorned with intricate scollwork, dignified columns, tall vertical windows, solid wooden medieval-looking doors opening to tiled interior courtyards. Yet these would-be lovely gems are jammed up against cartoon eyesores from the 1960s, buildings beyond parody that seem purposely designed to offend every aesthetic sensibility ever cultivated. They are the worst I’ve seen anywhere, caricaturing themselves and insulting their neighbors.
The city isn’t crumbling. It isn´t a pretty sight, but it holds together fairly well. The buildings and infrastructure are more or less intact, but the city is tired and world-weary. It lays supine in the highlands valley, beaten down by earthquakes, volcanic eruptions, civil war, revolution, economic devastation, and dictatorship. The city is hungover. Its eyes squint at the sun. It groans with depression and exhaustion.
There are no skyscrapers in the center of the city. The narrow streets are miniature canyons lined with three- and four-story buildings, just tall enough to keep the sunlight out and the pedestrians claustrophobic, but not tall enough to convey that I’m in the largest city in Central America, population 3 million, about the size of Seattle.
Even the Plaza Mayor is painful. It is fronted by the National Palace, which looks nice enough up close but from a distance looms oppressive and Satanic. I swear that building has horns on top and a tail somewhere in the back. It glowers menacingly at the city and seems the perfect command center for a diabolical dictatorship, which, until only a few years ago, is exactly what it was.
Humorless palace guards point machine guns at everyone walking past. Don’t even think about cracking a smile at these characters. I tried a couple of times and they stared holes right through me, stonefaced as the Mayan frescoes at Tikal.
The economy here isn’t remotely up to Western standards, but every shop is full of modest wares, and street vendors hawk everything from knockoff goods (“Hugo Boos” t-shirts), pirated gay pornography on DVD, and allegedly brand-name perfumes in tiny bottles with hand-made labels. There are almost no beggars at all, and even less garbage and graffitti. The city is poor but the center is nearly immaculate, much cleaner than New York or Paris. Nearly everyone, even the very poor, are sharply dressed and unfailingly polite. The people here have a sullen and heavy look about them, but they carry themselves with a quiet upright dignity. They are poor, but they do the very best they can with what little they do have. Everyone here is a survivor.
Guatemala suffered a 36-year horror show that only ended, nervously, in 1996. The military lorded it over the country with a brutal reign of terror. Communist guerillas, backed by the Soviet Union, waged revolution in the countryside. The armed forces hit back with a scorched earth campaign that made no distinction between combatants and civilians, between Communists and Maya Indians. In the 1980s, thousands of Maya were ethnically cleansed from their villages and relocated to concentration camps euphemistically dubbed “model communities.” Cities and villages were terrorized by gestapo-like death squads of La Mano Blanco (the White Hand). Mass graves and bone piles are strewn across the highlands.
Everyone in Guatemala over the age of ten remembers all this. The scars of psychological trauma are etched in their faces forever. But all that is over now, and the capital city has a bit of a blank slate feel to it. The future is open and more hopeful than anyone here can remember. Guatemala is slowly, in fits, becoming a normal country with problems instead of a tragic place that explodes.
The only people who have begged me for money are the war wounded. The city isn’t full of them, but they are around. Every ten blocks or so I’ll see one on the sidewalk. They are horribly disfigured people, always men, with missing or disfigured limbs. Just in case I wanted to pretend that Guatemala’s recent history was more like tranquil Costa Rica’s, they’re a semi-regular reminder that this is not so.
I have never been to Guatemala before, but it’s obvious the economy is better now than it was. Young people here are short by American standards (I swear I’m the tallest person in Guatemala right now), but they tower over their elders. I’ve never seen such tiny people as the oldest of this country, especially the Maya. Most of the men look me in the chest, but some of the elderly Maya are only as tall as my stomach. Malnutrition was obviously widespread and severe. But teenagers today are much taller, and look as healthy and hale as those in Europe.
“The inhabitants of Guatemala appear to have little desire for public amusements seen in most cities.” So said Robert Dunlop in 1847. He could have said so last week. There are few restaurants, fewer bars and cafes. Movie theaters have been converted into clothing stores. Strolling the markets and praying in church are the high points of public entertainment, at least to my casual wandering eyes. This is not Spain, where even grandparents are out at two in the morning in the restaurants and bars. Guatemala retires at seven. I haven’t seen a single club in the capital.
.
Almost no one in Guatemala City speaks English, not even at the elegant colonial hotel where we are staying. The exception is our doorman.
“¿Habla Usted ingles?” he asked me.
“Yes, I speak English” I said, surprised to hear a local ask me this question.
“Where are you from?” he said.
“Oregon. United States.”
He beamed with delight. “I love United States,” he said. “I lived six years in Chicago. I worked at Ritz Carlton Hotel by the lake. Chicago, it is the most beautiful place I have ever seen.” He put his hand on his heart. “I miss it so much.”
I didn’t want to ask him why he came back to Guatemala. I didn’t want to hear a tragic story, that he was illegal and was deported. It would have broken my heart. I wanted to give him Chicago back, but I couldn’t.
“Yes,” I said. “Chicago is beautiful. I used to live nearby and I visited on weekends. I miss it, too.” And it’s true. I do.
.
I met Joey in the hotel bar. He looks like the perfect California beach dude. Turns out he’s a ballet dancer from Toronto.
“I’ve been to a lot of cities in my life,” he said heavily. “A lot of cities. And this is by far the worst one. I walked down the street a couple of blocks and came straight back to the hotel. I’m done now. Not going out again until we get to Antigua.”
I chuckled.
“I hear you,” I said. “It’s not a pretty sight. But I like it because it’s real. Besides, this place is nowhere near the bottom. Tijuana, Mexico. That’s the worst place I’ve seen. Next to that, Guatemala City is Prague.
It takes a half-hour to get downtown from the airport in a taxi. And I didn’t see a single slum along the way. At least, not the kind I’ve seen in Mexico. There are shantytowns around, I know, but I’ve yet to run into one. Run-down neighborhoods, yes. Dickensian squalor, no. I didn’t think it possible to drive clear across this city and miss all that, but apparently you can. The outlying areas remind me more than anywhere of Los Angeles; shiny glass towers, nail salons in strip malls, palm trees in the meridians, and bougainvillea atop the garden walls.
Despite the poverty, despite its traumatic past, the city somehow manages to hold its head up. It has little to recommend it for tourists looking for entertainment and luxury, but it’s interesting (for a short while) if you can appreciate a bit of realism. It is like a resiliant survivor of a terrible accident who gets back on his feet and stares down death in the face. History weighs so much here. But if this city could speak it would say – firmly – I want to live, and godammit I will.
(We have had enough of realism and have moved on to the lovely colonial city of Antigua. It is ancient, bright, colorful, and soul-soothing. Primordial green volcanoes tower over its streets. It is, I think, the perfect Latin American city.)
Great story so far. Can't wait to see the pictures :-)
Posted by: Mike Silverman at November 25, 2003 12:10 PMOkay, I admit. I enjoyed reading that. I never been in Guatemala City myself. Still, I'm urging you. Stop blogging and have a real holiday, will you? I promise that we'll all still be here when you get back.
Posted by: Taco at November 25, 2003 12:14 PMI've spent considerable amounts of time in Guatemala City, and your description is that of someone who tours the area around the Presidential Palace and the outdoor market place to the immediate south and little else. The city does not close up at 7PM, and most of what you are seeing was built after the entire place was flattened by the 1917 earthquake. There is very little in the way of 19th Century stuctures. The Presidential Palace was built in the mid-1930's. Antigua at first glance is charming, but it is the worst tourist trap in the country. Next time you are in Guatemala City, try visiting Zones 9 and 10 to get a better perspective of things. Yes, there is terrible poverty, which you can see by visiting the garbage dump in Zone 12, plus on the outskirts of Zone 1, but overall Guatemala City isn't any better or worse than places I've been to in the Far East. Actually, I rather like the place, and have no qualms about walking around at 10PM at night, when the restaurants and nightlife are just getting going. I'm going back in January, by the way, but I'll avoid Antigua!!
Posted by: Dave at November 25, 2003 12:53 PMSeattle has a population (2000) of 563,374 [http://seattle.areaconnect.com/statistics.htm]. An odd choice for comparison considering the mention of Chicago which has a population of just under 3 million.
Posted by: Scott Janssens at November 25, 2003 01:26 PMThe most striking thing to me walking around Guatemala City at night is the age structure. If you are 35, you may be the oldest person on the street out of hundreds of people. Guate may not close up at 7pm, but Antigua does. The night life consists of a couple of bars where gringos sit and destroy their livers.
Posted by: Byron at November 25, 2003 01:48 PMI'm with those who want to read you and want you to take a break for the sake of your self and your wife.
And while you are, ask yourself from whence comes this compulsion to vacation in the third world.
Now, check out, log off and have a nice steaming cup of STFU using that very special Guatamalan chocolate.
Posted by: Van der Leun at November 25, 2003 01:50 PMMichael,
Thanks for the postcard. I realize that part of your enjoyment is articulating the experience, so blog away.
For those of you who think Michael is working while writing travel pieces: STOP SNIFFING GLUE!
Posted by: Patrick Lasswell at November 25, 2003 02:23 PMIf you are going overland to Belize, and you have a chance, be sure to get to Xunanchinich, the Mayan Ruins just over the Border, before San Ignacio. Also, better still, if you can stop at the Belize Zoo (between Belmopan and Hattieville) by all means, do so -- neatest little zoo on the planet.
If possible, avoid Belize City. It's kind of a pit.
Posted by: Andrew at November 25, 2003 02:41 PMThe reason there is nothing going on in Antigua at night is because once the last of the tourist bus outfits splits town, that's it for business and we roll up the sidewalks. Antigua is worth a visit one time just to remind one's self of the true definition of "tourist trap." Everything there is over-priced junk. You can do a lot better in Guatemala City, if you have to buy something for the folks back home. That, and the better restaurants are in GUA, where one can have a nice meal at 9PM, and a pleasant stroll back to where one is staying.
Posted by: Dave at November 25, 2003 02:53 PMEnjoy, enjoy. If that means blogging, do so -- and I'll admit to enjoying what you write.
Grim reality; but with hope, and increasing nutrition of the young. Just saw on CNN that Korean ball player who's not a pitcher. Good nutrition and good teeth, underdiscussed benefits of civilized, urbanized, industrialized life.
(I only came here today because some other site said you had new stuff!)
Andrew is right about Belize City. As for the war being over, I think that it won't be until anyone who lived through that time is gone.
As for Antigua being the perfect Lat Am city, it still needs an ocean :-)
Posted by: Randy Paul at November 26, 2003 06:57 AMFirst time reader to this blog (InstaPundit referral).
I appreciated the description of Guatemala City, having lived in Guatemala for a number of years and travelled extensively throughout Central and South America. For me the perfect place to visit is Sololá or Panajachel, at the water's edge to Lake Atitlán. It seems a crime to me to visit Guatemala, and not go to the Lake.
The worst Latin American city I have visited is Tegucigalpa, Honduras. It seems more like a lone outpost than a Capital City. I usually try to get out and wander when in a new city (I speak fluent Spanish), but my height gives me away quickly (6'2") as not being latin.
Guatemalans are nearly universally friendly. I find them to be quite optimistic, in general, even when I visited during the war (mid '80s). However, for the most part, there is a certain resigned-to-their-fate quality that I find uncomfortable. Almost like, "This is my lot in life, so I guess I'll be happy about it" rather than "The future is brighter than the present, so I'll be happy about that." That fatalistic quality is not universal, however, and the current generation of Guatemalans has a more forward-thinking perspective. But it will be years before Guatemala rises to its rightful place as the leader of Central America and a player in Latin American politics.
Posted by: Russ Fletcher at November 26, 2003 10:00 AMHave you ever read Marcos McPeek Villatoro? You should. You would enjoy his work. Especially Walking to La Milpa (I hope I spelled that right ...) He was one of my teachers at Antioch.
Vaya con dios. And yes, keep writing. To others, it might seem like a strange compulsion, but I understand. If you're not writing, you might as well not be thinking or living ... I can't imagine traveling without a notebook!
Posted by: karrie at November 26, 2003 04:31 PMThanks for the warning.
It sounds like a real hell hole.
I'll stick to Cancun.
Posted by: David at November 26, 2003 04:43 PMIt sounds like a real hell hole.
There are nice places in town. We stayed in the center of the city, so that is mostly what we saw. And it isn´t really a hell hole, it is just rough and unpretty. It´s interesting, actually, for a short time, in ways that Cancun´s unreality never can be.
Antigua is stunning. Those who says it is a tourist trap are right, but I don´t care. It is too beautiful for me to care. Tourists come here for a reason, just as they avoid Guatemala City for a reason.
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Scott: One strongly suspects the author was comparing the metropolis called Guatemala City with the metropolis called Seattle. Chicago, which has a metropolitan population of at least 8 million (it depends on how one defines greater Chicago), would obviously not fit the bill in this case. When making comparisons between urban areas, it's often advantageous to ignore the rather arbitrary borders that municipalities give themselves and simply do a head count for an entire metropolitan region. The resulting numbers are more objective, as they avoid the disparities introduced by the fact that in different corners of the world, different methods are employed to organize and define what constitutes a municipality.
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