October 23, 2003

South America Photo Album

Four weeks from today Shelly and I begin our annual trip out of the country. This time we leave for fifteen days in Central America. One week in Antigua, Guatemala, and another on an island off the coast of Belize.

There is nowhere I would rather visit than Latin America. The culture is so…seductive. It is poorer, but friendlier. Both familiar and exotic. Full of heat and passion, warmth and light. I miss it when I am away.

Last December we went to Chile and drove 2,000 miles along the length of its spine. For those who like road trips, it is the perfect country. Smooth open roads, well mapped and signed. Beautiful cities, exotic landscapes, delectable food (the best outside France), and the sweetest people you’ll meet anywhere in the world. Their friendliness is embarassing.

Tonight I browsed through our photo album and I remembered what we said to each other on our way home to the cold and rainswept north. We promised that we have to go back.

norte_chico.jpg

Lush farmland in the valley between the mountains and the sea.

horseback.jpg

Me on horseback in the Andes.

valparaiso.jpg

The lovely hilltop seaside city of Valparaiso.

modern_santiago.jpg

Modern Santiago.

santiago_skyscrapers.jpg

Skyscrapering Santiago.

museo_de_bellas_artes.jpg

Museo de Bellas Artes.

old_santiago.jpg

Old Santiago.

plaza_de_armas.jpg

Plaza de Armas.

santiago_sidewalk.jpg

Barrio Brasil, inner-city Santiago.

road_to_antofagasta.jpg

The road north through the Atacama Desert, the driest place on the Earth.

shrine.jpg

A roadside shrine.

salt.jpg

Salt. It is everywhere in the north.

san_pedro_church.jpg

Church in San Pedro de Atacama.

volcan_licanabur.jpg

Volcan Licanabur, Cordillera de los Andes. The base of the mountain is two miles above sea level. We gasped for breath gazing upward.

Posted by Michael J. Totten at October 23, 2003 11:19 PM
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Greetings from my new assignment in Korea. Those are beautiful pics and I envy your travel life. Visit a new land once a year. Of course, I have Southeast Asia at my fingertips right now, so I'm not too envious :)

I also recommend Bulgaria. Beautiful and inexpensive, and the $3 rolexes are pretty nice too ;)

In August, I went to Canada for the first time in my life, where I sopent five days in London and a week in Newfoundland. That is a beautiful land that even most Canadians have never been to.

Posted by: Green Baron at October 24, 2003 03:05 AM

Michael,

Boy, do you look like a gringo sitting on that horse!

Beautiful pics! Maybe someday in another life...

Posted by: HA at October 24, 2003 04:11 AM

Congrats and enjoy. Are you going to Ambergris? I hope that was the "island off Belize" you referred to. It's a truly wonderful place. And a divers paradise. In Guatamala, if you've never been there, you'll find Tikal, I'm sure. It's stunning, CA's Giza.

Posted by: Michael at October 24, 2003 04:34 AM

Ah, man, I'm so jealous. Due to having parents that live far away (each pair in different countries), most of my wife's and my vacation time is spent visiting them, which leaves very little room to get to know the rest of the world. Its those times when I envy the rest of the world's huge vacation work allowances.

P.S. If you are in Chile again, you really should stop by Buenos Aires. Gorgeous city.

Posted by: Javier at October 24, 2003 08:40 AM

HA: Boy, do you look like a gringo sitting on that horse!

Well, I am a gringo. At least when I go down there. So it's okay.

Javier: If you are in Chile again, you really should stop by Buenos Aires. Gorgeous city.

My brother went to Argentina a few months ago and said Buenos Aires makes Santiago look like a slum. Rather surprising because most of Santiago is quite nice and has a better economy (at the moment).

Posted by: Michael J. Totten at October 24, 2003 09:06 AM

Nice pix, Michael. Digital or film? Camera creds, please.

Posted by: Roger L. Simon at October 24, 2003 09:09 AM

Roger,

It's digital. I forget which kind of camera it is. I pay little attention to my gadget specs after I buy.

The camera is two years old, so I'm sure every camera currently on the market is both better and cheaper.

Posted by: Michael J. Totten at October 24, 2003 09:17 AM

Excellent pictures; very evocative.

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If I were to ever become an expatriate, or if Ashcroft were to force me into exile, I would live in Central America.

Posted by: Steve Smith at October 24, 2003 11:09 AM

Yes, Santiago is quite beautiful, and it is probably nicer than Buenos Aires since in BA there are shantytowns even within the city. But the sheer scale (in population, architecture and culture, etc) of Buenos Aires dwarfs Santiago's. Its like New York to Santiago's, hmm, Washington, DC.

Posted by: Javier at October 24, 2003 11:44 AM

If looking at the Andes makes you gasp for breath you should try climbing them. Years ago I went on a climbing trip down to Ecuador and made it to the top of both Chimborazo (20,700') and Cotopaxi (19,400'). It's a little surreal to be climbing on snow and ice on the Equator with the outer edges of the Amazon jungle in view in the distance. Being on the summit of those peaks was breathtaking, both literally and figuratively.

Never been to Chile but it's on my list. Great pictures.

Posted by: Randal Robinson at October 24, 2003 12:49 PM

Gorgeous, lovely pictures. I got a kick out of that hat you're wearing. :)

Posted by: K at October 24, 2003 05:26 PM

Great Photos.

HA: Boy, do you look like a gringo sitting on that horse! Well, I am a gringo. At least when I go down there. So it's okay.

One thing I love about travel to South America was exemplified in my first trip. Mércia and I were on our honeymoon in Santa Cruz Cabralia, Bahia, Brazil. We were having lunch at a seaside restaurant and Mércia and I were chatting with the owner. Mércia told him that she was from Brazil and I told him that I was her gringo. He said "You're not a gringo; you have many firends here." That kind of warmth is very hard to find IMHO.

Posted by: Randy Paul at October 24, 2003 06:43 PM

Thanks for sharing. These are wonderful pictures.

Posted by: Mark at October 25, 2003 01:42 PM

Oh, very fine. Bon voyage, Gringo.

Posted by: vanderleun at October 26, 2003 04:15 PM

Here here! And, I'd put Costa Rica in with the "the sweetest people you?ll meet anywhere in the world" statement: lovely place, lovely people. Latin America is a fantastic place to travel.

Posted by: Ironbear at October 26, 2003 07:09 PM

You said it right about Latin America "The culture is so…seductive....Full of heat and passion, warmth and light."
I lived in Panama for 4 years serving with the US Army and I would go back there today if I could. Great pictures that brought back wonderful memories of a beautful part of the world.

Posted by: Tom at October 28, 2003 06:39 AM

Thanks for refreshing the memories. I spent close to two years backbacking through Latin America (Mexico to Chile) between 1969 and 1972. This includes about 5 months each in Mexico, Guatemala, Peru and Chile. Loved every minute of it.

My only regret - sleeping through the eruption of Volcan Villarica on New Years eve 1971. I was sleeping in a tent on the beach in Pucon on Lake Villarica and woke up in the morning having missed the eruption of the century. Argh!

Posted by: John B at October 28, 2003 09:39 AM

hey nice pix I'm Chilean (17 any girls)i was lookin for pix of chile chile is a really good place u got a mix of climate ther

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Johann Hari
Author of God Save the Queen?

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Andrew Sullivan
Author of Virtually Normal

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James Lileks
Author of The Gallery of Regrettable Food

"A hard-headed liberal who thinks and writes superbly"
Roger L. Simon
Author of Director's Cut

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James Howard Kunstler
Author of The Geography of Nowhere


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Essays

Terror and Liberalism
Paul Berman, The American Prospect

The Men Who Would Be Orwell
Ron Rosenbaum, The New York Observer

Looking the World in the Eye
Robert D. Kaplan, The Atlantic Monthly

In the Eigth Circle of Thieves
E.L. Doctorow, The Nation

Against Rationalization
Christopher Hitchens, The Nation

The Wall
Yossi Klein Halevi, The New Republic

Jihad Versus McWorld
Benjamin Barber, The Atlantic Monthly

The Sunshine Warrior
Bill Keller, The New York Times Magazine

Power and Weakness
Robert Kagan, Policy Review

The Coming Anarchy
Robert D. Kaplan, The Atlantic Monthly

England Your England
George Orwell, The Lion and the Unicorn